Risotto ai Funghi: The Mushroom Standard
Risotto has a reputation for being fussy. It's not fussy — it just requires attention. Thirty minutes of stirring, a glass of wine, and you end up with something that tastes like a restaurant spent two hours on it.
Your stock must be hot when it goes in. Cold stock shocks the rice, breaks the cooking temperature, and destroys the starch release that makes risotto creamy. Keep it at a bare simmer in a separate pot throughout.
🛒 Ingredients
- 300gArborio or Carnaroli rice
- 300gMixed mushrooms (porcini, chestnut, shiitake)
- 15gDried porcini mushrooms
- 1 mediumOnion, finely diced
- 2 clovesGarlic, minced
- 150mlDry white wine
- 1LVegetable or chicken stock, hot
- 60gParmigiano Reggiano, grated
- 40gUnsalted butter, cold, cubed
- 3 tbspExtra virgin olive oil
- 1 handfulFresh parsley, chopped
- 1 tspSalt + black pepper
🛠️ Method
Rehydrate Dried Porcini
Soak dried porcini in 200ml of boiling water for 15 minutes. Drain, reserving the soaking liquid — this is liquid gold. Chop the porcini finely. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve (or coffee filter) to remove grit, then add it to your hot stock.
Sauté the Mushrooms
Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a wide, heavy pan over high heat. Add fresh mushrooms in a single layer — do not crowd or they steam instead of browning. Cook without stirring for 2–3 minutes until golden. Season with salt and set aside. They'll be added back at the end.
Start the Soffritto
In the same pan, reduce heat to medium. Add remaining oil and diced onion. Cook slowly for 8 minutes until completely soft and translucent. Add garlic, cook 1 more minute. Add the rehydrated porcini and cook for 2 minutes.
Toast the Rice
Add the rice and stir continuously for 2 minutes until the grains become slightly translucent at the edges. You should hear a faint crackling. This step seals the exterior and controls starch release.
Add Wine and Build
Pour in the wine — it will hiss dramatically. Stir until completely absorbed. Now begin adding hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring constantly and waiting for each addition to be almost fully absorbed before adding the next. This takes 18–20 minutes. Never rush by adding too much at once.
Mantecatura — The Finish
When the rice is al dente (tender but with a tiny bite), remove from heat. Add the cold butter cubes and grated Parmigiano. Stir vigorously in a folding motion for 2 minutes — this is mantecatura, the technique that creates a creamy, emulsified sauce. Fold in the sautéed mushrooms and parsley. Rest for 2 minutes before serving.
💡 Chef's Notes
Rice variety: Carnaroli holds its shape better than Arborio and gives a creamier result. Use it if you can find it.
The porcini soaking water is the secret weapon. Never skip this — it adds 80% of the mushroom depth.
Leftover risotto: Make arancini — roll into balls, stuff with mozzarella, coat in breadcrumbs, deep fry. Better than the original.